Portugal 2002 and France 2004: both winners

Over break before Christmas in San Luis Obispo, I spied the Casa Ferreirinha 2002 Vinha Grande (WS 88, $10). How often do you get a chance to try a 2002 wine for this price, so I bought one. I've been disappointed with Portuguese reds with high scores, but this was an exception. Smooth, with raspberry, cherry and kirsch in a medium body. Drinking very nicely. My score: 89-90.

I've since bought another bottle at Cost Plus and it was identically nice. But their practice of entering your birthday (they ask for ID to ensure you can buy alcohol) to "unlock" the register is extremely invasive. If you purchase by check or credit card, they have both your name and your date of birth in their system. I will not shop at Cost Plus any more.

I have also shared a bottle of the Perrin & Fils 2004 Vacqueyras Les Christins (WS 92, $15). It was still dark, with big fruit in the way that Cote du Rhones have (which is not big by new world standards). Could last another 4 years easily. But drinking nicely with some minerality and spice. My lunchmates liked this a good bit. My score: 90.