A bargain on a 2005 Bordeaux?
The 2005 vintage was very strong throughout France, but it was the 2005 Bordeaux that stood out. The famed region seemed to have a once in a lifetime vintage, which really means a once every 20-25 year vintage. Critics were raving about the extremely high quality across the board from top and even middle producers.
Futures prices, to buy the 2005 before it came out, were truly astronomical. There are 5 first growths, Mouton Rothschild, Lafite, Latour, Margaux & Haut Brion, which routinely make the best wines from the region. The Chateau Margaux was being sold at $725 a bottle. Yes, that's right. The 2005 Pavie was a relative bargain, being offered at a mere $300 a bottle.
As someone who is gradually starting to Bordeaux flavor profile it makes no sense to buy expensive Bordeaux. I find it tastes of
- restrained fruit of dark woody berries
- tobacco leaf aromas
- coffee
- very little acidity
- smooth tannins
But what I really want is a 2nd or 3rd tier Bordeaux that isn't so elegant but more fruit forward. The problem is it is very hard to figure this out from the reviews. Even fruity Bordeaux are quite restrained compared to an Australian or Chilean wines. And under $20 if possible.
Occasionally, these pop up, where you get an 87 or even 89 pointer for $18. But it's hard to find a WS 90+ Bordeau for under $20. Especially from 2005.
So it was a pleasant surprise to see the 2005 Chateau Caronne Ste-GemmeHaut-Médoc for $14 at Costco. Here's the Wine Spectator barrel tasting.
Lots of berry and chocolate character with hints of vanilla. Full-bodied, with a solid core of fruit and silky tannins. Impressive. Almost hard to believe, it's so good. Almost 92-94. Score range: 89-91.I opened a bottle to see how much more I should get and it's not clear. It's fairly nice but not amazing. It is quite young, which doesn't help my evaluation. But at $14, it is one of the cheapest bottles you'll find, even if t is dissappointing relative to the WS review.
It is restrained with classic tobacco and coffee notes. I get some woody fruit. Thin body but very smooth. I know the wine will be small ("elegant" or "refined") but it's hard to reset my palate, still. My score: 87.
Update: it turns out I had preordered 5 bottles from the Wine Club back in 2006 and these have come in, so I have plenty. It is turning out to be a great gift wine, cause who wouldn't want a 2005 Bordeaux?
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