Friday, September 22, 2006

Vive la France

Returned from a vacation in France. Two of my goals were to eat authentic French cuisine and to learn about French wines, esp paired with food. I succeeded with not much effort on both counts. I have always prefered new world (US, Australia, possibly Latin America) wines
over the old world (Europe). New world wines have a riper, fruitier, bigger style, due climate, namely more sun allowing the fruit to ripen. But I was once again ready to sample French wines with an open mind.

In Europe, they often have wine at lunch and dinner, but they typically serve a table wine that is a far cry from the high end bottled wines they export. Their table wines are typically simple, minimally oaked whites, light reds or a crisp rose that can be produced economically. These refreshing wines go well with food but would receive a low score as there isn't much there. As an analogy, these wines are like light (non-heavy) blond beers in the vein of Bud/Miller/Corona/Kirin. In China, they make and serve a light beer that goes wonderfully with the local food, especially after a day of exertion (OK, it was sightseeing).

Their use of table wines really resonated due to 3 incidents.
  1. At restaurants, there typically was a cheap table wine sold by the "pot" or in 25cl, 50cl or 75cl quantities. Despite everybody telling me about the wonderful cheap table wines, I was disappointed over 1/2 the time. But in all cases I got a light-colored crisp red that was obviously meant to be drunk young.
  2. In the wine regions, they have caves (pronounced: kauvs) where they sell bulk wines and cheaply priced bottled wines. We stayed in Vaison La Romaine (Cote du Rhone/Provence) and at this cave, I was astonished to see spigots in the wall for wine selling for 1 euro per liter (about $1 for a standard 750mL bottle). This is cheaper than bottled water in many cases. You're expected to bring your own plastic container and they just fill it up.
  3. We met a couple (Harry and Antonia and Sophie) who had spent some time in both France and Italy. At one point, in Italy, Harry had brought a nice bottle bottle of Italian wine to a family dinner, but no one else would drink it. They all chose to drink the "table" wine the hosts uncle had made. It was like bringing a fancy Belgium bottle beer to a Midwest BBQ and everyone preferring to drink the Bud Lite.

So the vaulted Bordeauxs or Burgundies I read about really aren't what daily french wine is about.

Ironically, let me start with two wines available locally tasted here (N Calif), both from La Ferme Julien available at TJs for $5. They are both excellent and should go well with food. I had them before the France trip, and tried the Rouge (red) again

La Ferme Julien, 2004, Rouge, Cote du Ventoux ($5, TJ): Grenache 50%, Syrah 20%, Carignan 15% and Cinsault 15%. There is a rooster on the label as the winery mascot. From the south Cotes du Rhone region in the north Provence region (Mt Ventoux) near where we visited. Aroma of red and black fruit with a stony freshness (like a peach pit). Tastes of red fruit with a solid minerality (though ironically I only noticed this after returning from France) underneath. Medium bodied for this style. Noticable acidity but well balanced. Good on its own and even better with food. Has a bigger body than many wines I tasted from this region, which I like. Tastes like a nice version of the table wines available at all restaurants in the Cote du Rhone region, including Lyon. Still good after a day or two in an open bottle. [A].

La Ferme Julien, 2005, Rose, Cote du Ventoux ($5, TJ): Dry crisp rose. Nice. WS like it a lot too giving it an 86 (?). A good everyday rose. [B+].

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