My $16 price limit
I'm a bit of a quirky wine buyer as I've set an artificial price limit of around $16 on most wine I buy these days. This means I routinely blindly rule out any bottle more than my price limit, unless it is something very special, like I admit a high wine score. The problem is that ... as I slowly ascend into liking better wines and occasionally migling with more serious eonophiles, having such a low price limit seems out of place. At best, I get a "Well if that's your thing" attitude; worse is the "Well, you couldn't really appreciate fine wine, if that's all you'll spend". I've been doing some wine-soul searching on this for a while now.
While my price limit has gone up over time, it has lagged the increase in my financial standing. I recall looking for good wines for under $10 about 10 years ago in 1996. These were the days when the Rosemount Diamond Shiraz at $8 regularly got a WS 89 or 90 point score. When Napa cabernet was routinely still $20-35 a bottle. When $20 for a bottle could you a 93 point wine if you looked carefully.
Now, while most of the wines I buy are under $16, I will spend $24 for special bottles and even $35 for an exceptional bottle. The rule of thumb is when I go shopping, I like to average $12 a bottle when I buy several cases. A good quarter to a third of the wine is under $10. And at least 20% is over $20. So it's not a hard and fast limit, but more a persistant strategy on the average price of a bottle I drink.
I can get away with $16 in part because the world of wine has expanded and improved like any other fine food item. The pursuit of excellence means more very good wine is being produced than ever before. And much more decently good wine is produced, as cheaply as ever. Technically, improved vineyard management seems to be sweeping across the globe, as technique gets handed down and across the world map. And the number of dedicated, almost fanatic, winemakers seems to be exploding. Finally, the expansion of acreage in the wine growing regions in Australia, California, Washington, Argentina, and Chile to name a few, means that there is more good wine than ever before. So there should be plenty of decent wine at reasonable prices.
And in fact, there is plenty of very good wine for under $16 or even $12. As a "value" enthusaist and bargain, I drink a "90 pt" wine at least 1/3 of the time. I have an occasional 92 and on rarer occasionss a 93 pointer (Rosenblum England Shaw Syrah 02, about two weeks ago, but I really didn't care for it sadly, as it was very complex but not that enjoyable). But to get the 91 or 92 pointers, I have to break my rule and often spend $20 or even $24. The number of 94+ wines is countable on one hand, sadly. You have to ignore sweet wines, since it is possible to get 95+ points in Sauternes, tawny port, and other dessert wines.
But (as I drink a $9 Cycles Gladiator 2005 Syrah, which I quite like), I keep finding compelling reasons to splurge occasionally.
- I'll spend a lot ($60+ for food) for dinner occasionally, even though most of the time I'm way under that. It would seem silly if I said, I refuse to spend more than say $28 for dinner ever.
- There are categories of wines I simply can't enjoy, even once, with this attitude. A high end Burgundy or Bordeaux is out of reach. As is a high-end Napa or Sonoma cab. Ditto for a Super Tuscan or Barolo.
- I have the money. A bottle or two at $50 isn't going to break the bank.
- There is apparently a level of quality you don't often see at $16 or even $28. I had a 94 pt Langmeil Shiraz a few weeks ago (after lusting after it for 6 months on the shelf at home) and it was just a higher level of wine. The density of flavor and complexity were impressive. One the nicest finds in the last year at $16, but I imagine you have to pay much more to get wines like this, in general. The only reason I owned it was due to it's low price.
- I really despise people who view wine as a status symbol, and the most obvious way to statusize wine is to play the "mine costs more than yours"
- It's too easy to find good wine if you can spend $60 a bottle. It's a true test to find the gems at under $16 (or $22 or $12).
- Spending more for a bottle doesn't guarantee I'll like it that much more. Maybe it's my lack of upper-end wine experience talking, but I doubt I'll enjoy a $40 bottle that much more than a good $16 bottle.
- It's my thing. My schtick.
1 Comments:
Duderino... If you happen to have a wine cellar/cooling apparatus/dark cool closet then do yourself a favor. Buy just a few select bottles of wine at a higher price on a regular basis.
Then... CELLAR THEM.
Here's why. If you are anything like me then 5 years from now your wine tastes will be more mature, wine tastes better when aged, your salary will probably go up a bit, and inflation will mean that you would have to pay as much for that aged bottle as a brand new one but it wouldn't taste as nice.
Whatever you price range is, triple it, just for a few bottles. You will look back and say "why didn't I think of this sooner."
-MTL
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