Big, oaky chardonnays and the last of a favorite 2002

Chardonnay is or was arguable the most popular grape out there. It's white, most people like it, and it grows well. The popular trend in the early 2000's was to make big, oaky, creamy chardonnays. People loved them and soon many (but not all) wine critics started to loath them. Oak fruit bombs with little of the actual fruit was the common complaint. While I understand the sentiment, I beg to disagree.

I'm one who likes the buttery, rich, oaky taste. And some is fine but more is better. And with the plethora of chardonnays out there, the trick is to find the really good ones that don't cost too much with good availability. Here are my choices for the last several years, in which I buy at least 4 bottles every year.

1. Kali Hart 2002-2005 Chardonnay - an over the top style that is heavy and super ripe to the point of being sweet and heavily oaked. Lots of tropical fruit and some acidity. And at under $10, how can you go wrong, when you want an after dinner wine? The 2002 scored WS 90 which made me try it and I've bought at least 8 bottles of the 2005 recently.
2. Kendall Jackson 2004-2005 Kendall Jackson Chardonnay Grand Reserve - a big, fruity, at times sweet and buttery, oaky chardonnay. RP 91 for the 2004. Available at Costco. Pick some up.
3. Columbia Crest 2002-2004 Grand Estates Chardonnay - I've saved the best for last. At it's prime, the 2002 was my wife's and my favorite white. A big, buttery, butterscotchy, buttery popcorn, tasting wine. I think you get my drift. A super bargain with a WS 89 at under $8, I probably bought 18 bottles over time. I gave it the moniker "Old Faithful" during it's heyday. But since 2006, the remaining bottles of the 2002 have been hit or miss, with a sour, thin oaky flavor. The subsequent years have the same style, but haven't been as rich. I've only bought a few bottles.
   

Today, July 4th 2007, marks the last bottle of the 2002 Columbia Crest Chardonnay I have. I hoped for a good bottle and my wishes have been answered. It is past its prime as it is a bit more sour and thin than in its glory, this bottle still has the buttery oakiness unequaled by any other wine. It's all I could have asked for as a farewell.